I’ve been driving in Antigua since the day I arrived. Frankly, driving here has been a struggle. I’ve had multiple minor mishaps that have cost me money, but even more importantly my confidence as a driver.
One of the obstacles of driving here is not driving on the left side of the road. Actually, I think it is probably safer to drive on the left…passengers get in and out of the car on the side of the road…much safer for them. While I still on occasion turn my windshield wipers on when I want to make a left turn, even that is dissipating after three months of living here. No, the obstacles are the other drivers, the ditches wadis, sewers, gullies and pits on the side of the road, and the potholes.
The drivers. There is little patience when an Antiguan gets in a car. While many other aspects of Antiguan culture signal slow down, enjoy the moment, this does not pertain to driving. When an Antiguan gets in a car, they just want to go. Drivers think nothing of passing on a two-lane road that curves and swerves, going uphill and down. They do give you a toot of warning that they are going to whiz by. Antiguan drivers also seem to enjoy getting as close to you as possible…especially when you are traveling on a 2-lane road where people are parked on both sides. Paula, my mentor told me to just stop and let other drivers hit me. Actually this is pretty good advice…if only I could heed it all the time. But the problems with driving go way beyond the drivers.
There are gullies, pits, wadis and severs on the sides of the road that may or may not be protected by a barrier of some kind. While I have never seen a car plunged into one of them, I dream about the possibilities. Some of these gullies are just a few inches wide and not very deep, but others are just plain scary. Old Parham Road is unbelievable. It is no wonder they call it “old.”
Potholes in the roads are a way of life. With the intense rains, the roads don’t have a prayer. It seems that they fix a pothole and another springs up just as quickly. At first, I tried to avoid these potholes, by swerving the car, but usually I ended up hitting the potholes directly on when I did this. The roads are not made for relaxing driving, and unless you are very familiar with them, you find yourself hitting deep potholes, scraping whatever it is under your car that scrapes. It is very nerve-wracking!!!
Lest I forget the sheep, goats, donkeys, horses and cows that frequent the roadways here. Actually the sheep and goats are pretty savvy travelers. However, on the way to the beach this afternoon, a baby sheep was taking milk from its mother in the middle of the road. The cows don’t get out that much, so they don’t seem to have a clue as to what to do on the road. Best if you worry about hitting them, because they don’t seem to be worried about hitting you. The donkeys can be ornery on the road. They don’t seem to care if you hit them or not. Because they are such a problem, the Antiguans have developed a Donkey Sanctuary in the middle of the country to get them off the roads.
The season has seemed to change a bit. It is less cloudy and getting hotter and with that, there are more things in bloom and more tractors on the road. Following a tractor with five or six Antigua drivers behind you is not pretty.